Resort or cruise collections are an additional collection which some designers bring out every year designed specifically for vacation clothing. They promote a luxe lifestyle and an easy beach aesthetic dedicated to light fabrics and summer essentials.
Etro are an Italian design team who have been creating for 54 years and who every year promote their collections which is bright, energetic, and creative. The resort collections are no different from their AW and SS collections, they promote fun and versatile looks dedicated to the brand's aesthetic.
The Etro resort show in 2022 brought a rebellious vibe which has been primarily marketed towards youths. This could be because of the rise in youths wanting to travel after being restricted for so long due to covid-19. Etro said about their collection that they valued tradition, but they wanted to appease their flair for adventure, creative open-mindedness, and eccentric personality. They had been collaborating with the up-coming band Maneskin who they dressed for events such as Eurovision and Sanremo Music festival. Overall, their collection was exceptionally successful and worked in creating such a youthful take.
Last year’s collections took their influence from musicians, specifically rock musicians. Veronica Etro, the creative director found that she chased the free-spirit rock aesthetic, it took the brand back to their roots in 1969 which was the beginning of the brand and the time era of rebellion.
The 2022 collection promoted a biker yet bohemian chic mix up which was executed to perfection. The mix of knitted ponchos and shirts, with strong reference to spiritual symbols such as yin and yang. They kept the collection youthful by embodying a street style into the overall make up which included taking everyday designs of hoodies and trousers and incorporating patchwork and different material choices such as sequins, fringes, and beads to elevate the attitude, going above and beyond the expert creations. Paisley patterns with a punk takeover were prominently mixed with snakes, skulls, and homages to the biker subcultures with zipper jackets, skin-tight leather and patchwork.
Overall, Etro's Resort 2022 collection felt like a throwback and homage to founder's Gimmo Etro who broke out of the 60’s original aesthetic and promoted bright colours and untraditional motifs, in a time of rebellion and breaking down of barricades.
In comparison, the Resort 2023 collection has been brought about by a carefree atmosphere, incorporating freedom and relaxed moods. Veronica Etro has harmonised the perfect collection, which has yet again left the viewers wanting more and more. She has recently passed the baton to Italian designer Marco De Vincenzo, and paid her homage to Etro's free spirit, positivity and colourful personality. Sticking with paisleys as one of her main themes, but making them much more accessible by enlarging them to make graphic, vibrant, and simplified pieces. Her collections ooze with escapism and with Covid-19 restrictions coming to their ends for the time being, it hints at the desire to travel more. This year’s resort collection, in comparison to last year’s, focuses more on colours and joyful artwork to represent their explorations of alternative ways to connect with their customs. This year’s collection has kept the same roots which last years collection did by focusing on the change of the time the brand was formed in the 70s during rebellious times.
In order to maximise this year’s collection into the carefree mood they wanted to showcase their material choices and push the imagery by embodying free flowing silks, cotton maxi dresses, crochet, and flouncy silhouettes. The collection ranged from striped shirts to sequin vets and intricate embroidery. These collections promoted joyful bohemia which was convertible between everyday wear and resort wear.
Overall, this year’s collection has seen a shift in attitude for Etro, while still honouring their roots. The next chapters of their collections are going to be exciting as they prioritise how they change under new creative direction.
|Katie Kelly is a recent Textile Design, and Business and Marketing Graduate from Scotland. She loves travelling, exploring new places and doing anything creative. While studying, Katie specialised in printed textiles, and loves creating all types of prints and patterns, especially experimenting with colour and texture!